Is the Hipster a new subculture, or is it just modernisation?
We’ve all seen them, dotted around London with their independent coffee, ridiculously small rolled up beanie hats, and quirky specs. Yes — the Hipster. Although not just exclusive to London, Hipsters can be found in any densely populated area.
But with the internet popularising what’s trendy to a global audience it seems as though the Hipster has traded in its old narrow definitions and city locations for a wider range of looks and ideologies, with the idea of nonconformity taking centre stage.
You no longer have to be a heavily bearded/inked biker-bro to be labeled a Hipster. One must question — in today’s climate, is ‘Hipster’ just another way of saying ‘on-trend’? Is what is considered to be ‘Hipster’ just signs of a modernised society? Is it a subculture? And why are people reluctant to claim this title?
Dictionary.com defines hipster as “a person who follows the latest trends and fashions, especially those regarded as being outside the cultural mainstream.” Which is tricky as the internet has made counter-culture unavoidable, from the popularity of the Dark Web to having an encyclopedia of world music on your phone via Spotify, or even how easily someone can buy a killer 80’s ‘fit’ (outfit) from Depop. We’re living in times where various aspects of counter-culture can be explored in a matter of seconds.
With the internet being a staple in our daily lives, nonconformity is at the heart of modern identity. An Ofcom report has shown that young people are watching a third less TV, choosing online streaming platforms instead which encourages people to become more conscious consumers, — tailoring their interests to themselves first and foremost.
This feeds into individual interest, allowing the subcategories of audience members to indulge almost entirely in their choice of entertainment — outside of what’s being advertised. This is not an example of teens rebelling against social norms, but an example of how the young are the first to adapt to change.
A brief look at subcultures past will show that going against the grain has always been the message. Which if any — is the loudest message of the many facets of Hipsterdom. Urban Dictionary defines a Hipster as an attachment of words, phrases, and ideas to a product. For example counter-culture, indie, alternative, holistic and old-school to name a few. There isn’t a one size fits all for this group of people, instead, almost anyone who thoroughly commits to a certain culture can be described as a hipster. Which begs the question: if Hipsterism is a subculture, then can it be described as modernization of society?
Subculture specialist and lecturer Alejandro Hamanoiel says “When we think about Hipsters it’s very easy and attractive to consider them a subculture because they dress in a particular way or hang out in a particular place. However, there aren’t many people who self identify as Hipsters.” To test this theory, I took to Fix 126 Café in Shoreditch, the hipster capital of the UK, to find out what hipsters, thought of Hipsters.
I met with Esme, a 21-year-old fine art student at Central Saint Martins. Camera-shy Esme was wearing a beige trench coat with a hoodie underneath, large, dangly gold earrings and wore her hair in a messy bun. (I know a Hipster when I see one!) She says that the term Hipster is ‘well out-dated now, that went ‘round for like 2 years. It’s what people called men with long beards.’ During the interview, Esme’s friend Mary appeared, saying that being a Hipster is doing things for the aesthetic, she recognises that: ‘there’s an independence, eco-environmental consciousness that goes along with it but I don’t know if that goes hand-in-hand.’
Alejandro agrees, saying that the political acts of hipsters are all acts of consumption: buying clothes from sustainable companies, choosing an independent coffee shop over war-funding Starbucks etc. But looking at past subcultures: Punk, Teddy Boys and Mods — these are particular labels for people who had a strong sense of identity, people who wanted to be separated from the mainstream and be identified in a particular way. However, people’s reluctance to identify as a Hipster speaks to an uncertainty surrounding it.
The issues with the very label of Hipster is the vastness of its definition. It’s far too easy to assign all previous subculture practices to the ‘Hipster’ label. Someone who frequents underground techno raves, rejects mainstream music and materialism — is not a Hipster by virtue of pursuing the alternative. And in labelling them that, it attempts to erase pre-existing subcultures by assuming all that is ‘edgy’ and deviates from the mainstream is ‘Hipster’.
Shoreditch dweller Stefano agrees, the 32-year-old photographer notes that there are different types of Hipster. He doesn’t consider himself to be one as he associates the term Hipster to millennial kids who are a bit of ‘a douche bag, big beards, vaping.’ I told Stefano the reason for me interviewing is due to his long hair, dark clothes and heavily tattooed neck and hands — he has the look of a non-conformist, which is arguably at the heart of being a hipster. His response was that Hipsterism follows a trend, but non-conformity is timeless. Hipsterism has lost the raw ideology behind non-conformity.
Given the response of participants, it’s clear there is an inherent suspicion around what it means to be a hipster. People are inclined to detach themselves from the label in fear of being seen as inauthentic. The term doesn’t boost the pride that subcultures like, goths, rockers, and skaters are happy to embrace.
It would seem it’s more of a journalistic term to describe the modern values millennial generations cling too. It could be said that these new principles which underpin youth cultures, trigger the unconscious ways previous generations have lived, making causing those who don’t identify with youth culture to undermine them.
With the worlds information at our fingertips, and a stylish database of humans via Instagram, it is inevitable that a shift in values would appear amongst youth culture. What we label hipster would appear to be ideals previous generations are unwilling to understand. If awareness is Hispterism then it’s clear to see this is a product of modernity and not a sub-culture.
